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It is my fifth time inside Bali and, like a nurse who has spent time in emergency, my senses have numbed to the madness. I know the score at the airport: US$25 to customs, smile politely but refuse help from baggage handlers, and only change enough money for a taxi. I catch a ride with a driver called Maddi. While gazing out the window it’s obvious to me that things have changed since the terrorist attacks. ’ I ask Maddi. ‘I don’t know, perhaps Australian government. ’ Maddi seems politically astute and I feel like questioning him further but there’s sadness inside him.

In the afternoon, I finally pay the $1500 WQS registration fee via credit card online, print out a copy of the registration and the Mr Price Pro entry form, and then search for a post office to send them from. On a side street, I find one where parcels fly chaotically and all money calculations are done by a clerk scribbling on a piece of paper, but he assures me the documents will arrive. Afterwards, I hire a motorbike and ride along the beach with the new yellow round-tailed board tucked under my arm.

You need a whole swarm of bees trapped under your helmet, causing you to skittle across the road while narrowly avoiding the motorbike which has imploded in flames. It’s not enough to consider studying Eastern philosophies. It’s not enough even to have met the Dalai Lama. Eyebrows will be raised when you’ve met the Dalai Lama on an isolated mountain top near the Himalayas, he’s invited you back to his spiritual temple in Tibet and you’ve stayed there for six months as his own personal gardener.

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