Download Couture Sewing Techniques, Revised and Updated by Claire B. Shaeffer PDF

By Claire B. Shaeffer

The global of high fashion is a spot the place just a privileged few can ever desire to live, correct? unsuitable. type historian Claire B. Shaeffer opened the door to this specific realm in her authoritative consultant to the strategies that outline couture stitching. And now, the bible, Couture stitching Techniques, has been revised and up-to-date all through — with new pictures and a bankruptcy on area of expertise materials. not anyone can get to the bottom of couture garment building the best way Schaeffer can, from the paintings of hand stitching to gaining knowledge of aspect finishes, from vintage closures to shaping a garment for an ideal healthy. Readers examine the entire fundamentals — and extra importantly: the right way to follow the strategies — on skirts and sleeves, wallet and jackets, night robes, and extra. lovely pictures, transparent illustrations, and concise language mix to make this the main whole couture-sewing direction available.

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Extra info for Couture Sewing Techniques, Revised and Updated

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33) and/or the fell stitch (see p. 33). overcasting stitches are small, slanted stitches sewn over a raw edge. Generally made on a single layer, they can also be sewn on a double layer and worked in either direction. They should be about 1⁄16 in. deep and evenly spaced 1⁄16 in. to 1⁄8 in. apart. (See Chapter 3, p. ) 1. Use a short needle and work from left to right. 2. Hold the raw edge horizontally so it’s parallel to your index finger. Anchor the thread on the underside with a simple knot and insert the point of the needle under the edge about 1⁄16 in.

When working with lightweight and many medium-weight fabrics, this finish may show on the right side, in which case the edge should be overcast rather than bound. To make a seam binding, choose a lightweight fabric like chiffon, plain-weave silk, or organza. 1. -wide bias strips (see p. 82). 2. Trim the seam or hem allowances so they are even in width and 3⁄4 in. to 11⁄4 in. wide. 3. Right sides together, pin the strip to the seam allowance, matching the raw edges. Stitch a 1⁄4-in. seam by hand or machine and trim to 1⁄8 in.

A fellstitch is used to sew a raw or folded edge flat against the fabric beneath it, such as setting an undercollar, sewing seams permanently from the right side, sewing flat-felled seams, and finishing narrow and rolled hems. These directions are for fell stitching, or felling, a lining to a facing; however, they apply to other uses of fell stitching, except for hemming and felling a French seam flat, which are described on p. 51. 1. Use a short needle. 2. Begin with the facing and lining right side up, fold under the lining and match the seamlines.

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