By Harold Payson
Simply outfitted boats for amateurs. contains 3 stitch-and-glue designs-a process that enables the plywood seams to be "taped" including fiberglass and resin rather than steel fastenings-and 3 traditional designs outfitted with no jig.
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Additional info for Build The New Instant Boats
As I mentioned in the condensed description, it is easier to assemble the hull if you raise her to a comfortable working height, so let's make some legs for her. At this stage we'll be working on her upside down. Cut four 2 x 4s 2 feet long.. 7-inch board to the face of each 2 x 4. The top edges of the boards will fallSH. inches below the topS of the Building Gypsy Full Size 43 The side panels are tacked to frame molds number 6 and number 12. Number 9 is going in. While the stem is tacked to the number 3 frame mold, its forward end is supported on a block.
Check again to see how the forward ends of the side panels lie against the stem. If they match flush, then glue the side panels to it and finish nailing. If not, adjust the forward end of the assembly until they do. You don't need any cleats to nail the bilge panels to. Simply put them in place and make sure they lie flat on every frame. To ease any tight places-which usually cause loose places elsewhere-use a block plane and a handsaw to even out the fit. Tack the bilge panels to the edges of the bottom and side panels, and run masking tape or duct tape across the seams to help hold the panels in place.
You might be wondering if what you have done is really going to hold together. I've mentioned only one layer of tape on the inside, because that single layer along with two on the outside passed my laboratory strength test with flying colors: When I drove the rear wheel of my pickup over a sample joint, the plywood broke clean across leaving the taped joint itself intact. But it's true that the plans show two layers of tape along each seam on the inside, and I can't argue that two layers wouldn't be stronger.